Sagot :
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Northern Luzon highland textiles
enlargement
to Jpeg 55K Detail of a Bontoc woven textile from the highlands of Northern Luzon, Philippines
to Jpeg 51K A detail of an ancient blanket. These blankets have anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figures reminiscent of Chinese and possibly Indonesian design; Iloilo, Philippines
to Jpeg 57K Detail of a twill weave used in some textiles in the highlands of Northern Luzon, Philippines
to 58K A gilamat textile originally from Lubuagan but popular all over Kalinga, highlands of Northern Luzon, Philippines
to Jpeg 55K A detail of a Tinguian white skirt, highlands of Northern Luzon, Philippines
In general it can be said that southern Philippine and Indonesian textiles are more splendid than Northern Luzon highland textiles, and collectors of these are therefore often characterized as esoteric. The interest in cotton textiles from the north invariably is an offshoot of a fascination with the complex and intriguing cultures of the Cordillera mountains of Northern Luzon. For the select few who have delved into this field, and who have developed a respect for the way of thinking and behaving of these peoples, it is a privilege to own a small piece of this vanishing culture - a culture associated with bravery, tenacity, intelligence, beauty and harmony with nature.
Early examples of weaving consisted of basketry weaves, knotting and braiding, using vegetable fibers such as cane (rattan), nito, and bark (rammie). The Indonesian style back strap loom was first taken into use by the adjacent coastal people (Ilocanos), from where it spread into Abra (Itneg), Kalinga, and the Cagayan valley (Ibanag and Gaddang) to the east. At this time all these people were spirit and ancestor worshippers. When the first Spanish colonizers arrived in Ilocos in the 1570's they discovered that white cotton textiles were widespread. Such textiles were probably similar to examples collected in Abra during the 19th century. Cotton was introduced into Ilocos by Chinese traders during the late Sung dynasty. Ilocano textiles were widely traded in most areas among the highlanders, and regional preferences developed. top
Among the Isneg and Banao in the northern part of the mountains, weaving was never adopted. The Itneg, eastern Kalinga, and Gaddang appear to have been the first to adopt weaving, but when this occurred is uncertain. The Ifugao, Bontoc, southwestern Kalinga, Lepanto and Kankanay are thought to have adopted weaving relatively recently, perhaps only in the 18th century. Their weaving styles are distinctively different, and this must indicate the existence of a south-eastern "valley" weaving tradition (Issinay), versus the aforementioned northern tradition (Ilocano). The Ibaloy and the Ilongot peoples in the southern highlands did not weave. top
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WEAVING COMMUNITIES IN LUZON
The Philippines is an archipelago of more than 7,000 islands and more than a hundred indigenous groups, many of which practice weaving as part of their culture. For these weaving communities, weaving is culture, a part of their identity and way of life.
The Filipino people have a rich and vibrant tradition of producing textiles using a number of different materials such as abaca, cotton, piña, and silk, among other fibers. Each woven piece expresses the worldview, ideology, belief system, and creativity of the people that make it.
In her book Journey of a Thousand Shuttles: The Philippine Weave, educator and researcher Dr. Norma A. Respicio mapped the places in the country where the Philippine weaving tradition thrives. Her Philippine Textile Map shows some of these major weaving communities and gives an overview of the fibers, dyestuff, looms, and design techniques that these groups use.